FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
1.
How often should I water my orchid?
2.
How often should I be fertilizing my orchids?
3.
What do I do when my Phalaenopsis stops blooming?
4.
I am growing my Phalaenopsis in the house, but they never bloom. What can I do?
5.
How do I know if my orchid is getting the proper amount of light?
6.
The orchid in my window suddenly developed black blothes on the leaves. Is it sick?
7.
How do I know if I need to re-pot?
8.
My Phalaenopsis has been in flower for quite a while and now it seems to be forming what looks like a new plant on the flower stem!? Will it grow if I pot it and what type of soil is the best?
9.
I would like to try growing orchids under lights in my house. What type of light fixturesand bulbs do you recommend that I try?
10.
My mother gave me an orchid that is called Dendrobium Phalaenopsis. I am confused.Is this a type of Phalaenopsis and how do I care for it?
11.
What causes the new growth on my Miltonia ("pansy orchid") to be crinkled?
12.
What is the difference between a terrestrial and an epiphytic orchid?
13.
What is the difference between a hybrid seedling and a meristem seedling?
14.
I have just purchased a mottled-leaved paphiopedilum. Do I care for this plant thesame as the plain, green-leaved Paphiopedilum?
15.
What are the most common orchid pests?
QUICK CARE FOR YOUR ORCHIDSA. Phalaenopsis hybrids enjoy the light behind curtains and window blinds in this master bedroom.B. When watering your orchids, take care to avoid wetting the leaves. If water gets trapped in between the leaves, dry them quickly by using a piece of tissue or a cotton ball.C. After watering, do not allow residual or standing water to come in contact with the base of the orchid pot.D. When the last flower drops, cut your flower spike halfway down the stem. A possible rebloom will occur if you continue caring for your orchid. Simply follow orchid care guidelines.
Q: How often should I water my orchid?A: Many people make the mistake of assuming that since orchids are native to tropical rainforests, they must be watered several times a week. Unfortunately, watering this frequently will kill the roots of any orchid in short order. The general rule of thumb for orchids grown in the home is to water every 5 to 12 days, depending on the type of orchid, the temperature the plant is grown in, and the time of year. During the warm summer months when days are long, more frequent watering is required than in the cooler, shorter days of winter.There are three basic types of orchids, as far as watering is concerned: those that should be kept evenly moist at all times; those that should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings, except when in active growth; and those that should always be allowed to dry out a bit between waterings. The guidelines below list the major varieties of orchid in each type.Varieties to keep evenly moist (not soggy or wet) at all times:Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium, Odontoglossum, Varieties to keep evenly moist during active growth, allowed to dry out between waterings when not:Cattleya, Oncidium, Brassia, Dendrobium.Varieties to keep nearly dry between waterings:Phalaenopsis, Vanda, Ascocenda.In a family of plants as large as Orchidaceae, there are, of course, exceptions to these rules. Always be sure to ask for watering instructions when you purchase a variety of orchid with which you are unfamiliar.Q: How often should I be fertilizing my orchids?A: Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the instructions on the label. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend usage once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering; more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering. For complete step-by-step instructions on how to feed your orchids, click here.Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the label instructions. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend use once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering, more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering. For complete step-by-step instructions on how to feed your orchids, click here.Q: What do I do when my phalaenopsis stops blooming?A: If your plant has healthy, with thick, green leaves that have not become wrinkled or drooping, cut the old flower stem up high, just above a "node" and just below the lowest bloom. The plant will frequently send out a new flowering branch at that location. If your plant has thin, wilted leaves, or if the plant is small, with only 3-to-4-inch-long leaves, it is best to cut the flower stem all the way down, so that the plant does not weaken itself by blooming again right away. Carefully water and fertilize your plant to build it back into shape for future flowering on a brand-new stem. This can take up to a year or more, as Phalaenopsis, like most orchids, is a relatively slow-growing plant.Q: I am growing my phalaenopsis orchid in the house but they never bloom. What can I do?A: The most common reason for any orchid not to bloom is insufficient light. Move your phalaenopsis plants to a window where they will receive strong, but indirect light (near a south-facing window is ideal). You might also try lighting your plants with a fluorescent light fixture placed about 1-2 feet above the foliage. Give up to 12 hours of supplemental light per day. Phalaenopsis will also develop flower spikes in response to a cool period of about four weeks with night temperatures of 55F. After the cool treatment, raise the night temperature back to the normal 60-65F minimum. See if these changes to your growing conditions help to stimulate your plants to bloom.Q: How do I know if my orchid is getting the proper amount of light?A: One good indicator is leaf color. Generally speaking, the leaves should be bright green rather than dark green. Dark green indicates too little light while reddish green indicated too much light. Those orchids requiring higher light intensities, such as cattleyas, dendrobiums and oncidiums, should be placed in a south or west facing window, but be sure to protect the leaves from the hot mid-day sun with sheer curtains or move the plants back from the window on hot summer days. Miltonias, phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums prefer lower light intensities and should be located further away from the window or placed in a window facing east or north.Q: The orchid in my window suddenly developed black blotches on the leaves. Is it sickA: It sounds like your plant has a bad case of sunburn! Longer, brighter days can increase the light intensity in your window so that the leaves get too hot and burn. You need to move your plant back from the window or put up sheer curtains to help protect it from direct sunlight. As the light intensity decreases in the fall, move your plant closer to the window again. Frequently check their leaves and watch for any fading of their green color, especially on those parts of the leaf closest to the window. This is an early indication that they are being exposed to too much sun.Q: How do I know if I need to re-pot?A: A newly potted phalaenopsis should be able to remain in its growth media two years before repotting. When there are many, long roots over the edge of the pot, this plant has most likely been growing for several years since its last repotting. If your plant is not currently in bloom, you should repot now. Be sure to remove all dead roots that are usually dark-colored, soft and mushy. Sometimes they may be dry, with a fiber running through the middle of the root. Center the plant with all of its roots down in the pot and add moistened bark until the level of the bark is just below the bottom of the lower set of leaves. Wait a week before resuming your normal watering and fertilizing routine.Q: My phalaenopsis has been in flower for quite a while and now it seems to be forming what looks like a new plant on the flower stem! Will it grow if I pot it and what type of soil is best?A: Congratulations! With proper care you will have a new plant, identical in every way to your original phalaenopsis. Wait until the new plant has developed a strong little root system of its own, with two or three roots at least one to two inches long. Then, carefully cut the plantlet, called a keiki, from the flower stem and put it in a very small pot of seedling bark for its first potting. After a year or two, move up to medium-sized bark in a four to five inch pot. Alternatively, you can pot the keiki in special orchid sphagnum moss. Be sure to go light with the fertilizer for the first few months. Once the plant has established itself, as evidenced by increased leaf growth, start with full-strength fertilizing.Q: I would like to try growing orchids under lights in my house. What type of light fixtures and bulbs do you recommend that I try?A: Many hobbyists have been successful with just ordinary fluorescent lights. You can also buy the more expensive fluorescent plant lights that give off a broader spectrum of light. An inexpensive way to achieve similar results is to use one cool-white fluorescent to one warm-white fluorescent bulb. The cool-white bulb will give off more of the blue wavelengths of the visible spectrum while the warm-white gives the plants more of the red end of the spectrum. Such a broad spectrum of light helps assure better growing and blooming. Some people also add one incandescent bulb to enhance the red end of the spectrum but be sure you don't burn your plants with the heat given off by this type of bulb.Q: My mother gave me an orchid that is called Dendrobium Phalaenopsis. I am confused. Is this a type of phalaenopsis and how do I care for it?A: There are more than one thousand different species belonging to the genus Dendrobium. One species, Dendrobium phalaenopsis, has been frequently used to make hybrids. These hybrid orchids are noted for their upright, branching sprays of brightly colored flowers that resemble those of the genus Phalaenopsis. They basically prefer the same growing conditions as for phalaenopsis but dendrobiums will perform better in a brighter location in your home. Place them in a bright window, but without direct hot sun (south facing window is ideal). Sheer curtains will protect your plants from the burning rays. The ideal minimum night temperature is between 60-65F. The ideal day temperature is 75-85F. Phalaenopsis type dendrobiums like to have their potting medium dry out a bit between waterings.Q: What causes the new growth on my miltonia (``pansy orchid") to be crinkled?A: Crinkled leaves are an indicator that the plant received insufficient water while the new leaves were developing. This can be caused by either loss of roots due to keeping the growing media too wet, which has killed most of the roots, or by simply not enough water to an otherwise healthy root system. Miltonias prefer to have their roots constantly damp, but never soggy. Older growing media will tend to hold water for longer periods of time so be careful not to overwater. Miltonias also prefer lots of humidity, with 50-75% being the ideal amount. Light, morning misting of the foliage is helpful in hot, dry conditions but be sure to keep standing water out of the leaves or soft rot may develop, especially if there is poor air circulation around your plants.Q: What is the difference between a terrestrial and an epiphytic orchid?A: Terrestrial orchids live on the ground, usually in a water-retentive humus of rotting wood and leaves. These orchids need a constantly moist, but never soggy, medium in which to grow. Paphiopedilums and cymbidiums are examples. Epiphytic orchids live on the branches of other plants -- usually trees. They are not parasites -- they obtain no food from the trees on which they grow. Epiphytic orchids have "air-roots" which are accustomed to drying out in between periods of rain. These orchids need an open medium in which to grow and the roots should be allowed to become moderately dry between waterings. Cattleyas, vandas, phalaenopsis, and dendrobiums are common examples.Q: What's the difference between a hybrid seedling and a meristem seedling?A: A hybrid seedling is an orchid plant that has been produced by seed through the hybridization process. Two parent plants were used to produce the seed and the individual seedlings all have their own unique characteristics, like brothers and sisters in a family. A meristem seedling is a seedling that has been produced using the cloning process. Each "mericlone" plant has an identical genetic make-up and each meristem or mericlone plant will look exactly the same, like identical twins.Q: I have just purchased a mottled-leaved paphiopedilum. Do I care for this plant the same as the plain, green-leaved paphs?A: Like their solid green-leaved relatives, the mottled-leaved paphiopedilums prefer less light than many orchids and are well suited for growing in your home. Place them near a bright window but out of the direct sunlight. Both types of paphs should be kept continuously moist but not soggy. The solid green-leaved types are cool growers that prefer night temperatures of 50-55F and day temperatures of 75-80F. The mottled-leaved types are warm growers that prefer night temperatures above 60F and day temperatures of up to 85F.Q: What are the most common orchid pests?A: Snails and slugs often hide in the potting media where they chew on young root tips; they also come out at night to chew on the leaves and stems. There are several insect pests that are common: Aphids (small sucking insects) and thrips (small chewing insects) attack tender new growth, flowers and buds. Scale insects form a brown or black crust on leaves and stems. Mealybugs also attack the leaves and stems forming a white cottony mass. Consult a local garden center for products to control these pests.
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Wednesday, April 2, 2008
Time to Plant the Tulips, How to Plant Tulips
Part of the You Can Learn Landscaping and Gardening series.By Ken BrownEditor, YouCanLearnSeries.comUpdated: October 28, 2005
Article Review:
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-->Late fall before the first frost it is time to plant the tulips and other bulb plants like crocus. This simple article will discuss the proper way to plant bulb plants like the tulip and when to plant them. First, I always recommend that you read the grower's recommendations for planting their hybrids. Generally, for tulips and bulb plants this is the standard recommendations. Tulips
Dig a hole approximately 6 inches deep.
Place bulb in hole with the bulb facing up.
Space bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart.
Cover with dirt and water. Crocus
Dig a hole approximately 3 inches deep.
Place bulb in hole with the bulb facing up.
Space bulbs about 2 to 3 inches apart.
Cover with dirt and water. These planting tips will produce the best chance that you will get the greatest number of your tulips to survive the winter and ensure an attractive spring blooming season. Other helpful tips that will increase chances of survival include planting your bulbs before the first frost of the season and especially before the ground freezes.
Plant Bulbs in Clusters
For the most attractive spring glory plan your bulb plantings in clusters. Tulips always give a better show when there are groups of them together. So plan how you are going to combine colors, patterns and even tulip type to make the best spring presentation. Put the bulbs in clusters of 5 to 25, ensuring even spacing and proper combinations of colors. Don't be afraid to use contrasting colors to make a statement with your bulbs. To amend the soil use bonemeal and / or bulb food in the bottom of the hole to help the bulbs have a good start when the ground begins to thaw. As you are digging the 6 inch hole loosen the soil another 2 inches and combine the bonemeal into that loosened soil. Crocuses and tulips require some sun but do okay in partial sun. It is important that you plant your bulbs in the right direction when planting. Bulbs are food sources for the flower. When facing the wrong direction, they begin growing in the wrong direction and use up valuable energy and food trying to find the sun.
Some people do plant them sideways or upside down for a purpose. If you want to delay the timing of your different groups of tulips, then that will take longer for those bulbs to poke their heads out of the ground and it will appear that you have timed your bulbs to bloom at different times in the early spring. Other bulb and bulb like plants include:
Iris
Plant on the surface
Crocus
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Begonia
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Lilies
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Ranunculus
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Gladioli
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Daffodils
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Dahlias
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Tulips
Plant 4 to 6 inches deep
Hyacinths
Plant 6 to 8 inches deepIn Review, plant bulbs like tulips and crocuses the proper depth in the ground. Plant them in borders or groups / clusters to get the best visual impact. Get them in the ground before the first frost and especially before the ground freezes. Give the bulbs enough space between each other so they have the best chance of surviving. And most important, plant them so the flower part is facing toward the sun.
Article Review:
/0
Bad
Good
-->Late fall before the first frost it is time to plant the tulips and other bulb plants like crocus. This simple article will discuss the proper way to plant bulb plants like the tulip and when to plant them. First, I always recommend that you read the grower's recommendations for planting their hybrids. Generally, for tulips and bulb plants this is the standard recommendations. Tulips
Dig a hole approximately 6 inches deep.
Place bulb in hole with the bulb facing up.
Space bulbs about 4 to 6 inches apart.
Cover with dirt and water. Crocus
Dig a hole approximately 3 inches deep.
Place bulb in hole with the bulb facing up.
Space bulbs about 2 to 3 inches apart.
Cover with dirt and water. These planting tips will produce the best chance that you will get the greatest number of your tulips to survive the winter and ensure an attractive spring blooming season. Other helpful tips that will increase chances of survival include planting your bulbs before the first frost of the season and especially before the ground freezes.
Plant Bulbs in Clusters
For the most attractive spring glory plan your bulb plantings in clusters. Tulips always give a better show when there are groups of them together. So plan how you are going to combine colors, patterns and even tulip type to make the best spring presentation. Put the bulbs in clusters of 5 to 25, ensuring even spacing and proper combinations of colors. Don't be afraid to use contrasting colors to make a statement with your bulbs. To amend the soil use bonemeal and / or bulb food in the bottom of the hole to help the bulbs have a good start when the ground begins to thaw. As you are digging the 6 inch hole loosen the soil another 2 inches and combine the bonemeal into that loosened soil. Crocuses and tulips require some sun but do okay in partial sun. It is important that you plant your bulbs in the right direction when planting. Bulbs are food sources for the flower. When facing the wrong direction, they begin growing in the wrong direction and use up valuable energy and food trying to find the sun.
Some people do plant them sideways or upside down for a purpose. If you want to delay the timing of your different groups of tulips, then that will take longer for those bulbs to poke their heads out of the ground and it will appear that you have timed your bulbs to bloom at different times in the early spring. Other bulb and bulb like plants include:
Iris
Plant on the surface
Crocus
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Begonia
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Lilies
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Ranunculus
Plant 2 to 3 inches deep
Gladioli
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Daffodils
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Dahlias
Plant 3 to 4 inches deep
Tulips
Plant 4 to 6 inches deep
Hyacinths
Plant 6 to 8 inches deepIn Review, plant bulbs like tulips and crocuses the proper depth in the ground. Plant them in borders or groups / clusters to get the best visual impact. Get them in the ground before the first frost and especially before the ground freezes. Give the bulbs enough space between each other so they have the best chance of surviving. And most important, plant them so the flower part is facing toward the sun.
Blue-Tulip - Plant Information
The blue-tulip (Moraea polystachya) is generally described as a Perennial Forb or herb. This Monocot (monocotyledon) is not native to the U.S. (United States) .
The Blue-Tulip may be available from nurseries, garden stores and other plant dealers and distributors.
See more details about Blue-Tulip
Blue-Tulip Perennials Sponsored Links Plants for Sale Plant Stands Seeds & Bulbs Tree SeedsOrganic Gardening Garden Decor
The Blue-Tulip may be available from nurseries, garden stores and other plant dealers and distributors.
See more details about Blue-Tulip
Blue-Tulip Perennials Sponsored Links Plants for Sale Plant Stands Seeds & Bulbs Tree SeedsOrganic Gardening Garden Decor
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
The Sunflower Stop's Home Guide To Growing Sunflowers
Sunflowers are some of the most enjoyable and easiest flowers to grow. Children love them. Adults love them. If you have ever grown a tomato plant, then growing a sunflower plant will be a snap. This guide should help anyone get started with growing their own colorful sunflower garden.
Good Luck
Getting Started
It is very important to carefully consider the types of sunflowers you intend to grow and where and how you intend to grow them. I remember our first sunflower crop. We thought of everything and planned a large sunflower garden along our back fence line. Tall varieties in the back, mid height varieties in the middle, and smaller varieties in the front. Everything was perfect.
If you visited our about sunflowers section you learned that the heads of the sunflower tend to follow the predominate direction of the sun. Well, the fence line where we planted our garden is located in the east section of our lot. We live in Southern California so the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. When the taller varieties grew above the fence line the flowers followed the rising sun and we looked at the back of the flowers from our family room window for several weeks.
Needless to say planning is very important. Carefully select your seeds reading all of the information on the seed packs. Pay attention to the height of the plants, and the time to bloom, and the type of flowers. For example, you do not want your back rows to be spent when your front rows are just beginning to bloom.
Consider whether you are planting for cut flowers, or planting to harvest and roast seeds for eating. Maybe you want to plant your sunflowers in pots or create a barrier of sunflowers between you and your neighbors. Seeds for every type of planting are readily available. You just need to have some idea about what you want from your garden.
Sunflower seeds, in a number of varieties, are available at most local garden nurseries. If you are not near a nursery then mail order catalogs are always a good choice for finding the seeds you need. I have found Burpee to have a large selection of sunflower seeds and they seem to offer new varieties every year. If you simply cannot find the seeds you are looking for email me and I will do my best to find them for you.
Return to Index
Planting
Ok, you have planned your sunflower garden, bought your seeds and you are ready to plant. Stop! There are several things you may want to consider before you plant.
Seed Germination
Not all sunflower seeds are created equal. Open your package of seeds and lay the seeds out on a table and you will notice that they are all different sizes. One way to ensure even growth and the strongest fastest growing plants is to germinate your seeds before planting. By germinating your seeds before planting you can pick out the seeds that will provide the best chance of success. Typically, the first seeds to germinate will be your strongest best thriving plants.
Here is what you need to germinate your seeds prior to planting.
A plate or saucerPaper towelsSpray bottle filled with water
Follow the directions shown.
Step 1
Gather Your Supplies
Step 2
Take a paper towel and fold it in half and then half again. Dampen the paper towel spraying it with water. Spread your seeds out across the damp paper towel.
Step 3
Take a second paper towel and fold it in half and then half again just like the first one you did. Place the second paper towel on top of your seeds. Dampened the paper towel on top of your seeds spraying it with water.
Step 4
Check the paper towels every day to make sure they are damp. NOT WET. Seeds soaked in water will grow mold or drown and die before ever germinating. Check your seeds every few days for germination by pulling back the top paper towel and looking at seeds.
Step 5
After a week or two your seeds should begin to sprout. The first seeds to sprout will more than likely will be your strongest and fastest growing plants. Note that not all of the seeds have sprouted. Plant the sprouted seeds first. Wait a few days on the remaining seeds to see if they in fact sprout. If not, throw them away and start a new batch.
Step 6
It's time to plant. Go ahead and place your seeds about 1/4" deep in the soil and cover. Place your seeds 12" to 18" apart. Water real well soaking the soil.
Soil Considerations
Sunflower plants are like any other plant. The better the soil the more heartier and robust the plant. Our experience shows that sunflowers like a soil that drains well and contains a lot of mulch. About two weeks before planting I mix a bit of steer manure into the soil where I am going to plant.
Sunflowers do well in many different soil conditions, so I would not get too hung up on your soil conditions. If you have plants that are doing well now in an area where you want to plant your sunflowers, then your sunflowers will do just as well.
Return to Index
Sun and Water
The operative word here is sun. Like its name the sunflower needs plenty of direct sun; a minimum of 6hrs a day to grow healthy plants. If you plant sunflowers out of direct sun light they will stretch for the sun. They will become so spindly stretching for the sun eventually they will fall to the ground. We recommend full sun for the better part of the day to grow strong healthy sunflowers.
Return to Index
Fertilizing
Return to Index
Pests
Return to Index
Harvesting
Return to Index
Good Luck
Getting Started
It is very important to carefully consider the types of sunflowers you intend to grow and where and how you intend to grow them. I remember our first sunflower crop. We thought of everything and planned a large sunflower garden along our back fence line. Tall varieties in the back, mid height varieties in the middle, and smaller varieties in the front. Everything was perfect.
If you visited our about sunflowers section you learned that the heads of the sunflower tend to follow the predominate direction of the sun. Well, the fence line where we planted our garden is located in the east section of our lot. We live in Southern California so the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. When the taller varieties grew above the fence line the flowers followed the rising sun and we looked at the back of the flowers from our family room window for several weeks.
Needless to say planning is very important. Carefully select your seeds reading all of the information on the seed packs. Pay attention to the height of the plants, and the time to bloom, and the type of flowers. For example, you do not want your back rows to be spent when your front rows are just beginning to bloom.
Consider whether you are planting for cut flowers, or planting to harvest and roast seeds for eating. Maybe you want to plant your sunflowers in pots or create a barrier of sunflowers between you and your neighbors. Seeds for every type of planting are readily available. You just need to have some idea about what you want from your garden.
Sunflower seeds, in a number of varieties, are available at most local garden nurseries. If you are not near a nursery then mail order catalogs are always a good choice for finding the seeds you need. I have found Burpee to have a large selection of sunflower seeds and they seem to offer new varieties every year. If you simply cannot find the seeds you are looking for email me and I will do my best to find them for you.
Return to Index
Planting
Ok, you have planned your sunflower garden, bought your seeds and you are ready to plant. Stop! There are several things you may want to consider before you plant.
Seed Germination
Not all sunflower seeds are created equal. Open your package of seeds and lay the seeds out on a table and you will notice that they are all different sizes. One way to ensure even growth and the strongest fastest growing plants is to germinate your seeds before planting. By germinating your seeds before planting you can pick out the seeds that will provide the best chance of success. Typically, the first seeds to germinate will be your strongest best thriving plants.
Here is what you need to germinate your seeds prior to planting.
A plate or saucerPaper towelsSpray bottle filled with water
Follow the directions shown.
Step 1
Gather Your Supplies
Step 2
Take a paper towel and fold it in half and then half again. Dampen the paper towel spraying it with water. Spread your seeds out across the damp paper towel.
Step 3
Take a second paper towel and fold it in half and then half again just like the first one you did. Place the second paper towel on top of your seeds. Dampened the paper towel on top of your seeds spraying it with water.
Step 4
Check the paper towels every day to make sure they are damp. NOT WET. Seeds soaked in water will grow mold or drown and die before ever germinating. Check your seeds every few days for germination by pulling back the top paper towel and looking at seeds.
Step 5
After a week or two your seeds should begin to sprout. The first seeds to sprout will more than likely will be your strongest and fastest growing plants. Note that not all of the seeds have sprouted. Plant the sprouted seeds first. Wait a few days on the remaining seeds to see if they in fact sprout. If not, throw them away and start a new batch.
Step 6
It's time to plant. Go ahead and place your seeds about 1/4" deep in the soil and cover. Place your seeds 12" to 18" apart. Water real well soaking the soil.
Soil Considerations
Sunflower plants are like any other plant. The better the soil the more heartier and robust the plant. Our experience shows that sunflowers like a soil that drains well and contains a lot of mulch. About two weeks before planting I mix a bit of steer manure into the soil where I am going to plant.
Sunflowers do well in many different soil conditions, so I would not get too hung up on your soil conditions. If you have plants that are doing well now in an area where you want to plant your sunflowers, then your sunflowers will do just as well.
Return to Index
Sun and Water
The operative word here is sun. Like its name the sunflower needs plenty of direct sun; a minimum of 6hrs a day to grow healthy plants. If you plant sunflowers out of direct sun light they will stretch for the sun. They will become so spindly stretching for the sun eventually they will fall to the ground. We recommend full sun for the better part of the day to grow strong healthy sunflowers.
Return to Index
Fertilizing
Return to Index
Pests
Return to Index
Harvesting
Return to Index
Sunflower
My New WordPress Blog - Exploring Blogosphere
Hello, everyone! I've been working on my new WordPress blog - Exploring Blogosphere -since last week; that's also why I didn't get chance to visit your blogs lately. There are a few things I need to handle - register a domain name; find a good hosting company; install WordPress software; change the blog template; set up widgets, etc. It's a time consuming learning process. I've considered having a new blog for a long time and I am glad that I eventually made it.Exploring Blogosphere will focus on blogging tips, tech news, gadgets, ebusiness, entrepreneurs, and everything else happening in the blogosphere. I will share what I encounter in the blogosphere and topics that might be interesting for bloggers. Below is a list of recent posts for you to get started.
Checklist for Starting a New WordPress Blog
About Blogger Custom Domain
WordPress Vs. Blogger
What's Web 2.0 ?I will highly appreciate if you could stop by Exploring Blogosphere and leave your smiles there, just like what you always do on Sunflower blog. If you have any questions or concerns about hosting your blog on your own, or things like that, you can leave your comments too. I'll try my best to answer them -I am still learning :-)
Hello, everyone! I've been working on my new WordPress blog - Exploring Blogosphere -since last week; that's also why I didn't get chance to visit your blogs lately. There are a few things I need to handle - register a domain name; find a good hosting company; install WordPress software; change the blog template; set up widgets, etc. It's a time consuming learning process. I've considered having a new blog for a long time and I am glad that I eventually made it.Exploring Blogosphere will focus on blogging tips, tech news, gadgets, ebusiness, entrepreneurs, and everything else happening in the blogosphere. I will share what I encounter in the blogosphere and topics that might be interesting for bloggers. Below is a list of recent posts for you to get started.
Checklist for Starting a New WordPress Blog
About Blogger Custom Domain
WordPress Vs. Blogger
What's Web 2.0 ?I will highly appreciate if you could stop by Exploring Blogosphere and leave your smiles there, just like what you always do on Sunflower blog. If you have any questions or concerns about hosting your blog on your own, or things like that, you can leave your comments too. I'll try my best to answer them -I am still learning :-)
Monday, March 31, 2008
7 Steps Toward Success with Roses
Plant breeders have given us roses that grow well under difficult conditions and bloom almost continuously from early summer to frost. Proper plant nutrition is easy and simple to provide with the use complete plant food that supplies all the vital elements needed from the soil. Insect and disease problems can be prevented easily with regular use of insecticide-fungicide that controls most chewing insects, sucking insects, and fungus diseases. With these aids, you can grow roses successfully.
GOOD STOCK: Buy good plants, preferably No. 1, two years old, field grown and budded plants. Plants that are not pruned should have 3 or more heavy 18-inch canes. Pruned plants should have canes with a diameter of at least 1/4 inch at the top. Plants potted in tar paper pots are preferred by many gardeners since they can be transplanted most any time of the year.
PLANTING: Select a sunny, well-drained location. Trim off all broken and bruised roots, cut top growth back to 6 to 8 inches. Dig planting holes at least 6 inches deeper than needed for the plant roots. Make holes large enough to accommodate roots without crowding or bending. Place a handful of small rocks or pebbles in the bottom of holes to facilitate drainage. Mix 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer with the soil placed over the drainage material. Cover this mixture with plain soil, bringing the level to desired planting depth. Make a mound in the center to receive plant. Set plant roots over this mound, spread roots, and fill in with soil. Firm the soil tightly 2 or 3 times while filling the hole.
FEEDING: Hybrid Tea, Polyantha, Floribunda Types: The first feeding should come in early spring as soon as leaf buds begin to swell. Clear away mulch and work plant food into soil around the plant. Use 1 rounded tablespoonful of fertilizer per plant (or 1 pound per 25 square feet of bed area). Second feeding should be made at the same rate and immediately following the first heavy bloom. Third feeding, also at same rate, should be made in late summer ... northern areas not later than August 15. In soutern areas, where blooming extends into October and November, a fourth feeding should be made about the first of October. Many growers follow a regular monthly feeding program during the growing season with good results. Tea Roses: Use one half of the above amounts, applying in a similar manner and at the same times.Hybrid Perpetual, Climbing, Shrub Roses: Feed 1 rounded tablespoonful of fertilizer to each square foot of space around the bush in early spring. Feed again when blooms start to appear. In both cases work the fertilizer lightly into the soil to within 4 inches of the plant.
SUMMER CARE: The cultural practices differ but little in various sections of the country, with exception of timing of operations that depend upon climate. Artificial watering may be necessary if summer rainfall is insufficient. If soil is well drained, there is not much danger of overwatering. When watering, soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches ... do not merely sprinkle. CULTIVATION is necessary to eliminate weeds and keep soil loose. Deep cultivation in midsummer is harmful when the roots are close to the surface. MULCHING during the summer will eliminate weeds, necessity of cultivation, and reduce moisture evaporation. Mulches should be applied 2 or 3 weeks before roses come into bloom.
DISEASES AND PESTS: Black-spot, mildew, and blight together with insects, such as aphids, thrips, and red spider, are some of the more troublesome rose disease and insect problems. Control is easy and prevention is practical with the regular use of chemicals, that controls most fungus diseases and chewing and sucking insects. Regular dusting every week or 10 days will make the disease-insect problem easy to handle.
PRUNING: Bush type roses should be pruned in the early spring when the leaf buds begin to swell, but before growth starts. Follow these basic principles:
Remove all wood killed or injured during the winter, cutting back to solid tissue.
Remove all weak, twiggy growth.
Shape plants by cutting strong canes back to -a uniform height, removing as little healthy wood as possible. Remove very old canes by cutting off at the ground level.
Cut ordinary hybrid varieties back to about 18 to 24 inches. Ramblers should be pruned after blooming by removing old unwanted canes at the base.
WINTER PROTECTION: It's not extreme cold that kills roses but rather the frequent alternate freezing and thawing that heaves the plant, thus breaking the roots. The winter sun and dry winds take moisture away from the canes and make winter injury more of a problem. Winter mulching with straw, peat moss, or other material is advisable in all but the extreme southern sections of the United States. This mulch regulates the soil temperature and tempers the effects of freezing and thawing. Pull soil up around each plant to a height of about 6 inches after the first frost, then after the ground is frozen r mulch.
GOOD STOCK: Buy good plants, preferably No. 1, two years old, field grown and budded plants. Plants that are not pruned should have 3 or more heavy 18-inch canes. Pruned plants should have canes with a diameter of at least 1/4 inch at the top. Plants potted in tar paper pots are preferred by many gardeners since they can be transplanted most any time of the year.
PLANTING: Select a sunny, well-drained location. Trim off all broken and bruised roots, cut top growth back to 6 to 8 inches. Dig planting holes at least 6 inches deeper than needed for the plant roots. Make holes large enough to accommodate roots without crowding or bending. Place a handful of small rocks or pebbles in the bottom of holes to facilitate drainage. Mix 1 tablespoonful of fertilizer with the soil placed over the drainage material. Cover this mixture with plain soil, bringing the level to desired planting depth. Make a mound in the center to receive plant. Set plant roots over this mound, spread roots, and fill in with soil. Firm the soil tightly 2 or 3 times while filling the hole.
FEEDING: Hybrid Tea, Polyantha, Floribunda Types: The first feeding should come in early spring as soon as leaf buds begin to swell. Clear away mulch and work plant food into soil around the plant. Use 1 rounded tablespoonful of fertilizer per plant (or 1 pound per 25 square feet of bed area). Second feeding should be made at the same rate and immediately following the first heavy bloom. Third feeding, also at same rate, should be made in late summer ... northern areas not later than August 15. In soutern areas, where blooming extends into October and November, a fourth feeding should be made about the first of October. Many growers follow a regular monthly feeding program during the growing season with good results. Tea Roses: Use one half of the above amounts, applying in a similar manner and at the same times.Hybrid Perpetual, Climbing, Shrub Roses: Feed 1 rounded tablespoonful of fertilizer to each square foot of space around the bush in early spring. Feed again when blooms start to appear. In both cases work the fertilizer lightly into the soil to within 4 inches of the plant.
SUMMER CARE: The cultural practices differ but little in various sections of the country, with exception of timing of operations that depend upon climate. Artificial watering may be necessary if summer rainfall is insufficient. If soil is well drained, there is not much danger of overwatering. When watering, soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches ... do not merely sprinkle. CULTIVATION is necessary to eliminate weeds and keep soil loose. Deep cultivation in midsummer is harmful when the roots are close to the surface. MULCHING during the summer will eliminate weeds, necessity of cultivation, and reduce moisture evaporation. Mulches should be applied 2 or 3 weeks before roses come into bloom.
DISEASES AND PESTS: Black-spot, mildew, and blight together with insects, such as aphids, thrips, and red spider, are some of the more troublesome rose disease and insect problems. Control is easy and prevention is practical with the regular use of chemicals, that controls most fungus diseases and chewing and sucking insects. Regular dusting every week or 10 days will make the disease-insect problem easy to handle.
PRUNING: Bush type roses should be pruned in the early spring when the leaf buds begin to swell, but before growth starts. Follow these basic principles:
Remove all wood killed or injured during the winter, cutting back to solid tissue.
Remove all weak, twiggy growth.
Shape plants by cutting strong canes back to -a uniform height, removing as little healthy wood as possible. Remove very old canes by cutting off at the ground level.
Cut ordinary hybrid varieties back to about 18 to 24 inches. Ramblers should be pruned after blooming by removing old unwanted canes at the base.
WINTER PROTECTION: It's not extreme cold that kills roses but rather the frequent alternate freezing and thawing that heaves the plant, thus breaking the roots. The winter sun and dry winds take moisture away from the canes and make winter injury more of a problem. Winter mulching with straw, peat moss, or other material is advisable in all but the extreme southern sections of the United States. This mulch regulates the soil temperature and tempers the effects of freezing and thawing. Pull soil up around each plant to a height of about 6 inches after the first frost, then after the ground is frozen r mulch.
Planting A Tree
Choosing a Tree
The first step in tree selection is to determine the type of tree appropriate for your property and your needs. Climate and soil play big roles. A date palm might have a tough time surviving a Minneapolis winter, for example. And a water-hungry willow would starve in the desert sands. Make sure that the tree species you are considering can flourish in your local climate and soil conditions (designated hardiness zone). And don’t forget some of these other important factors:
Matching tree to site is a key part of the tree selection process. What is the size of the site on which your new tree or trees will be situated? How big will that spindly three-foot sapling be in 30 or 40 years? Is an oak or a willow, either very large when fully grown, the best tree for a small front lawn in a city? On a large suburban lot, on the other hand, will a single small tree or bush be lost in a vast expanse of lawn?
A crucial factor to consider is proximity to buildings, sidewalks, driveways, streets, utility lines, overhead and buried, and septic systems. Trees spread out both above and below ground and branch overhang and root growth can cause considerable damage and incur considerable expense if a tree is poorly situated. Consider the planting location with respect to foundation, concrete and asphalt structures, and drainage structures.
Trees can play an important role in climate control. Deciduous trees planted on the south, west and east perimeters of a lot will provide shade during the summer while allowing scarce sunlight through in the winter when leaves have fallen. Evergreens, on the other hand, planted on the north and west sides of a property, can reduce winter heating costs by serving as windbreaks. Drainage is yet another issue to consider. Young trees do best when planted in good-quality, well-drained loamy soil. Heavy clays in poorly-drained sites present particular problems as many species of trees including white firs, yellowwoods, beeches, red oaks and yews will not tolerate ‘wet feet.’ In all cases, stagnant water pooling around roots can lead to ‘root rot’ caused by lack of available oxygen.
You can do a general test for soil drainage by digging a hole in the planting area and filling it with water. If the water hasn’t drained away in a couple of hours, drainage may be an issue. In areas where drainage is a particular problem, planting in raised beds of 12 to 18 inches of well-drained quality topsoil may be a solution.
Soil quality in new subdivisions often presents tree-planting problems. Construction materials, in addition to creating unsightly and difficult-to-work rubble, can alter the soils fertility by raising or lowering pH. Chemical and petroleum spills, which often occur during building construction, pose additional concerns. In cases where soil contamination is severe, the only solution may be to scrape away the contaminated soil and replace it with good quality topsoil at a depth associated with your planting objectives.
Personal taste is another key consideration. Think of how different kinds of new trees can enhance the attractiveness of your property. Make a list of the kinds of trees you admire and think about how they would look. Consider how your selection will fill in to the planting area over time. Make a few sketches or, if you don’t trust your own artistic talent, consult available landscape design software, or a landscape designer.
Next: Types of Trees »
The first step in tree selection is to determine the type of tree appropriate for your property and your needs. Climate and soil play big roles. A date palm might have a tough time surviving a Minneapolis winter, for example. And a water-hungry willow would starve in the desert sands. Make sure that the tree species you are considering can flourish in your local climate and soil conditions (designated hardiness zone). And don’t forget some of these other important factors:
Matching tree to site is a key part of the tree selection process. What is the size of the site on which your new tree or trees will be situated? How big will that spindly three-foot sapling be in 30 or 40 years? Is an oak or a willow, either very large when fully grown, the best tree for a small front lawn in a city? On a large suburban lot, on the other hand, will a single small tree or bush be lost in a vast expanse of lawn?
A crucial factor to consider is proximity to buildings, sidewalks, driveways, streets, utility lines, overhead and buried, and septic systems. Trees spread out both above and below ground and branch overhang and root growth can cause considerable damage and incur considerable expense if a tree is poorly situated. Consider the planting location with respect to foundation, concrete and asphalt structures, and drainage structures.
Trees can play an important role in climate control. Deciduous trees planted on the south, west and east perimeters of a lot will provide shade during the summer while allowing scarce sunlight through in the winter when leaves have fallen. Evergreens, on the other hand, planted on the north and west sides of a property, can reduce winter heating costs by serving as windbreaks. Drainage is yet another issue to consider. Young trees do best when planted in good-quality, well-drained loamy soil. Heavy clays in poorly-drained sites present particular problems as many species of trees including white firs, yellowwoods, beeches, red oaks and yews will not tolerate ‘wet feet.’ In all cases, stagnant water pooling around roots can lead to ‘root rot’ caused by lack of available oxygen.
You can do a general test for soil drainage by digging a hole in the planting area and filling it with water. If the water hasn’t drained away in a couple of hours, drainage may be an issue. In areas where drainage is a particular problem, planting in raised beds of 12 to 18 inches of well-drained quality topsoil may be a solution.
Soil quality in new subdivisions often presents tree-planting problems. Construction materials, in addition to creating unsightly and difficult-to-work rubble, can alter the soils fertility by raising or lowering pH. Chemical and petroleum spills, which often occur during building construction, pose additional concerns. In cases where soil contamination is severe, the only solution may be to scrape away the contaminated soil and replace it with good quality topsoil at a depth associated with your planting objectives.
Personal taste is another key consideration. Think of how different kinds of new trees can enhance the attractiveness of your property. Make a list of the kinds of trees you admire and think about how they would look. Consider how your selection will fill in to the planting area over time. Make a few sketches or, if you don’t trust your own artistic talent, consult available landscape design software, or a landscape designer.
Next: Types of Trees »
Pruning to Correct Tree Structure
Pruning to Correct Tree Structure
Basic Questions to Consider Before Starting
Will the tree be safe after pruning?
Will environmental, insect and disease problems, as well as other predatory conditions, be adjusted to preserve the tree for a valued period of time after pruning?
Will the appearance of the tree be pleasing to the owners?
Be aware of the structural problems of the tree to be saved:Reference the items marked A through F on the sketched tree.
Recognize the degree of rot through broken stumps or rotting leaders left after storm damage, which injures the main trunk. (Note A) This damage has caused cavities, including a basil cavity, and thus further rot has developed in the center of the tree. This tree requires crown reduction to alleviate excessive leverage and stress on the weak main trunk and leaders of the tree.
After the main leaders were broken off approxinmately 25 years ago (Note A), the nourishment generated from the root system went into the development of succulent, high thin growth that is unnatural and unlimited here (Note B). This is due to the lack of abutting trees that would normally compete and restrict the tree's growth, which in most cases would over-shade the tree and cause the death of the tree through natural forest competition. However, here is a tree that we wish to save due to its unique location, historical value, or because it may be the only significant tree in the vicinity.
By inspecting the amount of decay in cavity areas (Note A), one can carefully determine the strength of the remaining trunk and thus the importance of stimulating growth of additional sapwood to strengthen the remaining cylindical sapwood structure that is suporting the tree and, of course, to determine the mount of pruningrequired.
(C,D) Notice the root system is responsible for the growth of the tree more in the direction of the water, with a more vital root system on that side. See the area marked (Note C) as ledge, where the side of the tree is thinner and less vigorous. This dictates that the initial cuts to reduce the crown of the tree will start on the left-hand side over the water and not on the right-hand side over the ledge. The area marked (Note D) demonstrates the weak growth to the right of the area and the excessive, spindly growth to the left.
(E) Weak, rotten stumps that have live growth on them should be left and not removed, except proper cuts should be made to live groth at the broken ends. These cuts will reduce, as much as possible, the drainage of moisture into the main trunk of the tree and thus somewhat limit further rot taking place in the lignified tissue of the inactivexylem.
It is important in lowering the center of gravity of the tree to balance the weakened trunk by encouraging more foliage below. This new foliage will be stimulated in this remaining lower area and branches (Note E). Allowing branches to remain in this lower area, this new foliage will manufacture food and translocate it back to the main trunk. This procedure gives strength to the cylindrical supporting system rather than making cuts close to the trunk and removing some of the structural support. These limbs may not be aesthetically pleasing, but are physicollogically important for the support of the tree. The interior branches need to be lightly pruned to have them form an attractive pattern of new growth, lower down and within the tree's structure.
Once you have appreciated all of these values and considerations, it is now time to move into the tree and start making the six or eight primary cuts throughout the crown (Note F). Start on the side of the tree over the water that needs to be brought back more vigorously, so that area is initially pruned. Those points (Note F) are the areas where the first seven cuts will be made on this tree.
Additional Steps before Pruning Commences
Structural weaknesses, such as V crotches and interior rot, should be observed carefully to help guide the degree and severity of pruning to be done.
Stand back from the tree and view it from all sides. Stand under the tree and view its inner framework. This will allow you to plan the necessary pruning procedures. Presuming that this tree is a large mature deciduous, choose approximately four to ten major cuts that will be made to preserve and establish a central leader and reduce the width of the tree in an attractive manner.
Study the interior of the tree to see small interior growth that can be preserved and stimulated when nourishment is concentrated toward this growth after the above pruning procedures have been carried out. Study the interior growth in order to develop pruning procedures that will result in an attractive, natural, and pleasing pattern of growth.
Explain anticipated additional expense for cabling, bracing, and other treatments to the client.
Long-term costs and other procedures that may need to be done in the future, such as a second pruning (probably eight to ten years after the first pruning), should be estimated.
Establish a complete understanding with the client, preferably in writing, about how the tree will look at completion of pruning specifications that conform to ANSI A300 Pruning Standards.
Basic Questions to Consider Before Starting
Will the tree be safe after pruning?
Will environmental, insect and disease problems, as well as other predatory conditions, be adjusted to preserve the tree for a valued period of time after pruning?
Will the appearance of the tree be pleasing to the owners?
Be aware of the structural problems of the tree to be saved:Reference the items marked A through F on the sketched tree.
Recognize the degree of rot through broken stumps or rotting leaders left after storm damage, which injures the main trunk. (Note A) This damage has caused cavities, including a basil cavity, and thus further rot has developed in the center of the tree. This tree requires crown reduction to alleviate excessive leverage and stress on the weak main trunk and leaders of the tree.
After the main leaders were broken off approxinmately 25 years ago (Note A), the nourishment generated from the root system went into the development of succulent, high thin growth that is unnatural and unlimited here (Note B). This is due to the lack of abutting trees that would normally compete and restrict the tree's growth, which in most cases would over-shade the tree and cause the death of the tree through natural forest competition. However, here is a tree that we wish to save due to its unique location, historical value, or because it may be the only significant tree in the vicinity.
By inspecting the amount of decay in cavity areas (Note A), one can carefully determine the strength of the remaining trunk and thus the importance of stimulating growth of additional sapwood to strengthen the remaining cylindical sapwood structure that is suporting the tree and, of course, to determine the mount of pruningrequired.
(C,D) Notice the root system is responsible for the growth of the tree more in the direction of the water, with a more vital root system on that side. See the area marked (Note C) as ledge, where the side of the tree is thinner and less vigorous. This dictates that the initial cuts to reduce the crown of the tree will start on the left-hand side over the water and not on the right-hand side over the ledge. The area marked (Note D) demonstrates the weak growth to the right of the area and the excessive, spindly growth to the left.
(E) Weak, rotten stumps that have live growth on them should be left and not removed, except proper cuts should be made to live groth at the broken ends. These cuts will reduce, as much as possible, the drainage of moisture into the main trunk of the tree and thus somewhat limit further rot taking place in the lignified tissue of the inactivexylem.
It is important in lowering the center of gravity of the tree to balance the weakened trunk by encouraging more foliage below. This new foliage will be stimulated in this remaining lower area and branches (Note E). Allowing branches to remain in this lower area, this new foliage will manufacture food and translocate it back to the main trunk. This procedure gives strength to the cylindrical supporting system rather than making cuts close to the trunk and removing some of the structural support. These limbs may not be aesthetically pleasing, but are physicollogically important for the support of the tree. The interior branches need to be lightly pruned to have them form an attractive pattern of new growth, lower down and within the tree's structure.
Once you have appreciated all of these values and considerations, it is now time to move into the tree and start making the six or eight primary cuts throughout the crown (Note F). Start on the side of the tree over the water that needs to be brought back more vigorously, so that area is initially pruned. Those points (Note F) are the areas where the first seven cuts will be made on this tree.
Additional Steps before Pruning Commences
Structural weaknesses, such as V crotches and interior rot, should be observed carefully to help guide the degree and severity of pruning to be done.
Stand back from the tree and view it from all sides. Stand under the tree and view its inner framework. This will allow you to plan the necessary pruning procedures. Presuming that this tree is a large mature deciduous, choose approximately four to ten major cuts that will be made to preserve and establish a central leader and reduce the width of the tree in an attractive manner.
Study the interior of the tree to see small interior growth that can be preserved and stimulated when nourishment is concentrated toward this growth after the above pruning procedures have been carried out. Study the interior growth in order to develop pruning procedures that will result in an attractive, natural, and pleasing pattern of growth.
Explain anticipated additional expense for cabling, bracing, and other treatments to the client.
Long-term costs and other procedures that may need to be done in the future, such as a second pruning (probably eight to ten years after the first pruning), should be estimated.
Establish a complete understanding with the client, preferably in writing, about how the tree will look at completion of pruning specifications that conform to ANSI A300 Pruning Standards.
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